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Restaurant og café | 13/10/10

Sushi på toppen

  • Kun et par hvide skylignende lamper i loftet mod nord bryder med det sorte, men den dæmpede belysning gør, at Sky Bar trods de store glasfacader og et ganske højt støjniveau alligevel fremstår ganske intim.  Foto: Martin Sylvest AndersenKun et par hvide skylignende lamper i loftet mod nord bryder med det sorte, men den dæmpede belysning gør, at Sky Bar trods de store glasfacader og et ganske højt støjniveau alligevel fremstår ganske intim. Foto: Martin Sylvest Andersen
Sticks’n’Sushis nye filial i Tivolis hotel ved havnefronten er en klassiker tilsat spektakulær udsigt og indretning.

Vi er ikke skabt til højhed og blæst, ved jorden at blive, det tjener os bedst! Sådan skrev gamle Grundtvig tilbage i 1820, og ikke mange steder er hans ord blevet efterlevet så eftertrykkeligt som i den danske restaurantbranche, der traditionelt har holdt til i jordhøjde.

Men måske har den himmelflugtende danske gastronomi fået kokkedrengene til at sigte højere: i hvert fald er der inden for få uger åbnet to steder, der ikke kan siges at lide af overdreven grundtvigiansk højdeskræk. Både den nye Geranium (anmeldt i avisen i fredags) og nu også Sky Bar, der - med en spektakulær placering i toppen af det 12-etagers funklende nye Tivoli Hotel nede ved havnen - er udset til at være Sticks’n’Sushis nye flagskib.

Det Utzontegnede hotel er holdt i hvidt, mens selve Sky Bar er gået helt i sort. Sort nappa på borde og stole, aflange sorte lamper og en aflang sort bar, der er restaurantens dominerende midtpunkt. Man kan vælge at smide skoene og på traditionel japansk vis indtage sit måltid på tatamimåtter ved et hævet bord – vi var sent ude og måtte »nøjes« med et bord i det modsatte hjørne med udsigt til ankommende og afgående tog fra Hovedbanen.

Om sommeren åbner en terrasse her på vestsiden, og den skal nok – sammen med baren, hvor den kvindelige cocktailmester (med en fortid på bl.a. Umami og Bar Rouge) huserer – blive et sikkert trækplaster. Den mojitoagtige shojito-drink lavet på den risbaserede shochu-vodka med bl.a. ingefær og hindbær (95 kr.), som jeg fik til velkomstdrink, tyder på det.

På sigt planlægger Sky Bar at indføre en speciel femretters chef’s table-menu, men foreløbig er kortet identisk med dét, som tilbydes på de øvrige otte Sticks-restauranter.

Vi besluttede derfor – fraset Juniorines lille børnemenu med agurke- og gulerodsstave i misodip samt laksehosomaki-ruller serveret i lakæske (69 kr.) – at gå efter nogle af de a la carte-specialiteter, som sushikæden gennem årene har udvidet deres traditionelle sticks- og sushikort med. I første omgang – efter en 40 minutter lang ventetid, som dog var aftenens eneste misfarve på en ellers pletfri tjenerpræstation - en cevichesalat, hvor koriander- og limemarinerede rejer og stykker af hvidfisk var blandet med søde tomater, agurk og løg. En herligt frisk spise, præcist marineret så fiskens struktur var bevaret og med en elegant smagsbalance mellem marinade og øvrige ingredienser.

Det japanske ord hamachi bruges som fællesbetegnelse for mange slags hvidfisk. Denne udgave - fast i kødet og velsmagende - var skåret i tynde skiver, hvorefter den rå fisk på en poleret sort skiferplade blev serveret på en bund af wasabicreme, toppet af friskkværnet sort peber og lidt forårsløg, samt en efter min mening lige lovlig dominerende hvid trøffelolie.

I næste ret ankom skiver af maguro (tun) på samme måde, blot med den forskel at her var tunen lyngrillet, så den stadig var rå indvendig. Revet kinaradise, purløg, rødløg og chili toppede tunen, der kom med Sticks’s efterhånden legendariske sesamdressing. En meget præcis servering med masser af næsten kødagtig fylde, der dog blev overgået af den efterfølgende ebi hapser. Seks stykker dybstegt reje i tempuradej serveret på en aïoli på miso, krydret med chili, koriander og peber – en ret i fuldkommen balance mellem det sprøde og det bløde og det stærke og det fede.

Helt undvære sushi ville vi ikke. Først to af den mere luksuriøse slags – grillet kammusling med masago (stenbiderrogn), forårsløg og unagisauce – og derefter den opretstående gunkanmaki med pankopaneret foie gras i trøffel glace. Begge var i en klasse for sig – kammuslingen hyggede sig gevaldigt med den sødlige unagisauce (der i sushisammenhæng normalt bruges til de grillede ål) og stenbiderognen gav crunchy tekstur til alt det bløde.

Læs også: Se hvem der har fået flest stjerner i 2010

Lidt samme funktion havde paneringen på foie grasen, og så var den med til at lægge en dæmper på fedmen. Rulles ville vi også – i form af den absolut mest spektakulære på kortet, en omvendt rullet såkaldt bling bling roll, hvor et fyld af krebsehale og kammusling var omgivet af ultratynde skiver agurk og avocado, rullet i flyvefiskerogn farvet grønne med wasabi, og toppet af bl.a. orange lakseørredrogn. Det både lyder og så voldsomt ud, men smagte overraskende godt og velafbalanceret.

Vinudvalget er også stort set det samme som i resten af Sticks-imperiet, men på Sky Bar er der forrest stukket en flap ind med vine fra »hemmelige hylder«. De synes nu alle sammen at stamme fra vinimportør Jørgen Krüff, men det skal nu ikke lægges Sky Bar til last. Den friske og harmoniske flaske 07-riesling (fra Saarkongen Egon Müller, men Müllers slovakiske Chateau Belá til 395 kr.), som havde fulgt os under hele måltidet, var med både limenoter og en med tiden honningagtig sødme en udmærket allroundvin til fisken.

Også på andre måder adskiller Sky Bar sig. Her er ingen take away, og det giver, især ud på aftenen, en mere restaurantagtig fornemmelse end på kædens øvrige steder. Det klæder den præcist eksekverede mad, som ikke bare ligger i den øverste ende af sushiskalaen herhjemme, men faktisk har international klasse. Vi ligger et sted mellem fire og fem stjerner, men lader sagen afgøre af det sympatiske prisniveau, det gode vinkort og den flotte udsigt, der efter middagen oven i købet kan nydes fra en af de store dobbeltgynger bag baren. Og det helt uden at sætte til på gyngerne, hvad man har sparet på karrusellen.

Det spiste vi:
Ceviche salat 69 kr.
Hamachi carpaccio 99 kr.
Maguro tataki 99 kr.
Ebi hapser 69 kr.
Gunkan foie gras 38 kr.
Hotate yaki 29 kr.
Bling Bling Roll 145 kr.
Samlet pris for to ekskl. drikkevarer: 548 kr.
Ceviche salat 69 kr.
Hamachi carpaccio 99 kr.
Maguro tataki 99 kr.
Ebi hapser 69 kr.
Gunkan foie gras 38 kr.
Hotate yaki 29 kr.
Bling Bling Roll 145 kr.
Samlet pris for to ekskl. drikkevarer: 548 kr.

Hvad: Sticks’n’Sushi Sky Bar & Restaurant
Hvor: Tivoli Congress Center, Arni Magnussons Gade 4, 1577 København V, tlf. 88 32 95 95
Hvor meget: nigiri fra 23,- menuer fra 99,-  vin fra 195,-

Læs ogsåSe hvem der har fået flest stjerner i 2010
 

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