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Restaurant og café | 07/04/10

Tendens: Gastropubs popper op i København

  • fadøl Foto: Colourboxfadøl Foto: Colourbox
Efter en tid, hvor alle nye spisesteder kaldte sig et steakhouse eller bistro, dukker en ny tendens op på de nyhedssultne københavneres tallerken: Gastropubben.

8. april annoncerede to københavnske restauratører, at deres nye spisesteder var inspireret af Englands gastropubber:Olsen-drengene ved Højbro Plads og Cofoco på et stort, københavns hotel.

Over 60 i London
Gastropubberne er et udbredt, engelsk fænomen. Alene i London, beskriver restaurantguiden Time Out over 60 af slagsen.

Gastropub er en sammentrækning af ordene gastronomy og pub, som oprindeligt betyder public house, og gastropubben er en pub, som serverer mad på restaurant-niveau - ofte i et særskilt lokale.

Fra peanut til tre retter
Mange almindelig pubber serverer lidt mad ud over peanus og crisps, som chips hedder på engelsk. Men hvor de typisk serverer en kold sandwich eller en mikroovn-varmet chili con carme eller en Steak'n'ale Pie eller Shepherd's Pie, har gastropubberne et fuldt udrustet køkken, der ofte serverer traditionelle britiske retter af årstidens lokale, gode råvarer og tilberedt med et moderne twist.

Fra værtshus til cafe i København
Hvor mange pubber i England har fået nyt liv som gastropubber, er mange af Københavns brune værtshuse og gamle bodegaer blevet til cafeer, hvor det især er kaffen, fadøllene og cocktails'ne, som gæsterne kommer for at få. Det gælder for eksempel Cafe Bopa på Østerbro, som før den blev cafe var et værtshus, der hed Prøven. P'et på facaden var faldet ned, så det blev aldrig kaldt andet end Røven. Og vinbaren Malbeck på Istedgade var måske ikke berømt, men nok berygtet, dengang den var et værthus med det hårdtslående navn Jernstangen.

Fishers pastaværtshus
En undtagelse er dog Fisher på Østerbro, som før kokken David Fischer åbnede italiesk spisested - eller pastaværtshus, som han selv kalder det - var Erlands Pub, og hvor spillemaskinerne, baren og de gamle egetræsborde sørger for at Erlands ånd blander sig med den italienske pasta-ånd.

Den første gastropub lever stadig
Den første gastropub i London åbnede i 1991, da David Eyre og Mike Belben overtog pubben The Eagle i den del af London, som hedder Clerkenwell, og gjorde den til en kombination af en pub og et nyt, britisk spisested. The Eagle var i tråd med den nye bølge i det britiske køkken, som også kokken Fergus Henderson var med til at starte med restauranten St John, der også stadig lever i bedste velgående i Clerkenwell og er enkel, uformel og med knivskarp mad på tallerkenerne, hvor smagen af de enkelte råvarer får lov at træde frem.

Både den nye britiske bølge og det nye nordiske køkken er udslag af det regionale køkken, hvor man er sin oprindelige madkultur bevidst, men skaber mad til moderne mennesker og deres behov.

Topkokke åbner gastropubber
I London er det ikke længere kun unge, håbefulde kokke, der åbner gastropubber, men også verdensberømte michelinkokke og gastropubben The Harwood Arms har en stjerne i michelins guide til europæiske byer 2010. Den ligger i London ved undergrunds-stationen Fulham Broadway på Disctrict Line.

Paul Cunningham på gastro-research
Læs her, hvad den engelske kok Paul Cunningham fra michelinrestauranten The Paul i Tivoli sagde om gastropubber, da AOK i 2008, spurgte, hvad han skulle lave i julen:
"Jeg skal også kigge lidt på et par gastro-pubber, mens jeg er i London. For eksempel Marco Pierre Whites Yew Tree Inn og Heston Blumenthals The Hinds Head overfor The Fat Duck. Hestons pub gør det i gamle opskrifter, han researcher og er madhistorisk interesseret, mens Marcos pub serverer mad efter devisen fra jord til bord med vildt, når det er sæson." 

Læs mere
De 5 gode værtshuse
Olsen-drengenes gastropub-inspirerede B&W
Cofocos store gastropub på et hemmeligt hotel i København

Kilde: Du kan læse mere om pubber og gastropubber på Wikipedia


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