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Restaurant og café | 25/09/13

Se Timm Vladimir som møgpony på Michelin-restaurant

  • Et Michelinkøkken er ikke bare sådan at komme ind og arbejde i for normale mennesker. Men Timm Vladimir har fået chancen på AOC i tre dage. Foto: Rasmus Kramer Schou

    Et Michelinkøkken er ikke bare sådan at komme ind og arbejde i for normale mennesker. Men Timm Vladimir har fået chancen på AOC i tre dage.

    Foto: Rasmus Kramer Schou
  • Foto: Rasmus Kramer Schou Foto: Rasmus Kramer Schou
  12  
Et Michelinkøkken er ikke bare sådan at komme ind og arbejde i for normale mennesker. Men Timm Vladimir har fået chancen på AOC i tre dage.

”Så for satan,” mumler Timm Vladimir lidt overrasket og gør store øjne, da han kommer til at hælde for meget sirup i en dessert. Han skynder sig at tage noget ud igen, mens han hurtigt tjekker over venstre skulder om chefen mon så noget. Det gjorde han vist ikke.

Se billederne: Timm Vladimir i køkkenet på AOC

Timm Vladimir er en alsidig mand. Kendt gennem utallige tv-optrædener, og nu ejer af sin egen køkkenskole i Valby, Timm Vladimirs Køkken. Men disse tre dage er han hoppet et par trin op af den kulinariske rangstige og gør forsøget som medhjælper på Michelinrestauranten AOC, hvor køkkenchef Søren Selin har budt indenfor, og AOK er taget med som en flue på væggen for at dokumentere, hvordan en ivrig amatørkok egentlig klarer skærene, når han får lov til at spille med på et af de rigtige skarpe hold.

”Man kommer aldrig nogensinde sådan et sted her som hjemmekok, så bare det, at jeg fik muligheden gjorde, at jeg hoppede på. Jeg synes, det er skideskægt at lære nye ting, og selvom jeg er ok ferm i et køkken, så er jeg altså ude at spille med de store drenge nu. Jeg er spændt på, om jeg kan være med, men ikke bange. Jeg er jo under konstant opsyn,” fortæller Timm Vladimir, mens han står og dobbetltjekker ingredienserne i den dessert, han er ved at gøre klar. Søren Selin kommer hen og giver lidt dessiner, forklarer lidt og nikker anerkendende til elevens omgang med et piskeris i en skål.

Se billederne:  Timm Vladimir i køkkenet på AOC

Masterchef i Michelin
”Det her, det bliver simpelthen til en lille tyk masse?,” spørger Timm Vladimir køkkenchefen lidt undrende.

”Man kan godt se, at Timm har nogle helt basic skills på plads i et køkken,” fortæller Søren Selin, mens hans nye mand meget omhyggeligt måler op på en millimeterpræcis køkkenvægt. Faktisk har han tidligere vundet madprogrammet Mastechef og er lige nu kvalificeret til finalen i Masterchef Allstars og har dermed muligheden for at blive dobbelt vinder af programmet. Men én ting er tv, noget andet rigtig Michelinniveau.

”Timm lærer nok en masse, og jeg får tre dage med gratis arbejdskraft. Det takker man ikke nej til.” Søren Selin griner og klapper sin arbejdskraft på skulderen.

”Men han starter på bunden. Hvis man vil lære et rigtig Michelinkøkken at kende, må han også lære om hierarkiet, som hersker sådanne nogle steder her og respektere det.”

”Ja, jeg er en rigtig møgpony,” afbryder Timm Vladimir og de bryder begge to ud i et skraldgrin. Møgpony er et af de kærlige kæleord kokke har for den nederste i et køkkenhierarki. En ret stram klassedeling, der går gennem kokkeelever, kokke, souschefer og til sidst køkkenchef.

Søren Selin er sidstnævnte, og har høstet topkarakterer fra hele anmelderstanden for sin nordiske mad i kælderen på Moltkes Palæ i Dronningens Tværgade, hvor han nu forsøger at lære tricks fra sig.

”Ja, jeg har lige lært den mega svedigste opbinding,” stråler Timm Vladimir og ser ret stolt ud. ”Du ved, sådan en slagteropbinding, som ser for sejt og vildt proft ud. Søren har lige vist mig en helt anden slags teknik, som er ligeså blæret.”

Læs også: Søren Franks anmeldelse af AOC

Lost in omklædning
Dagen startede eller ikke så godt. Møgponyen var blevet vist ned af lange snørklede gange til omklædningsrummet, hvor han kunne skifte sit normale tøj ud med den hvide kokkejakke og gøre klar til dagens tjans. Men da han havde klædt om, kunne han ikke finde tilbage.

”Det var fandme pinligt. Jeg farede vild dernede, og blev nødt til at spørge en eller anden fra nogle kontorer om vejen op.”

Da han, efter et par omveje, havde fundet tilbage til køkkenet satte chefen ham i gang med dagens første opgave – personalemad.

”Så kommer man endelig ind på en rigtig Michelinrestaurant og skal lave det vildeste gourmetmad, og så sætter Søren mig i gang med at lave flødekartofler. Det er sgu ironisk ikke. Sidst jeg lavede flødekartofler var nok engang i ’80erne. Men sådan er det at være et køkkenæsel. Jeg håber bare, jeg kom nok muskatnød i kartoflerne.”

Søren Selin griner. ”P-mad er dagens vigtigst måltid. Ej, det er egentlig for at Timm kan prøve alle aspekter af vores køkken. I dag er mestendels opbakning, altså gøre alting klar, og fredag og lørdag ryger han både på det kolde, det varme og dessert partiet til en rigtig service. Han får lov til at prøve hele molevitten.”

At køre service er kokkesprog for rent faktisk at anrette maden og servere den for gæsterne. Opbakning er alt det, man gør inden gæsterne kommer, det hårde arbejde.

”Jeg har allerede pillet over 100 minimajs, og så har jeg frenchet duer (en fransk udskæring af kødet, red.). Sidst jeg frenchede duer var i folkeskolen, men det var på en lidt anden måde, hvis du forstår,” fortæller Timm Vladimir og klukker selv lidt af sin kokkejoke.

”Jeg kan godt mærke arbejdet i kroppen. Det er jo et ret hårdt arbejdsmiljø, man står meget op og krummer måske lidt for meget i ryggen. Det skal blive godt at komme hjem på sofaen og få benene op,” siger han og kigger på uret.

”Haha, og den er kun 16.00, og jeg er allerede træt.” En normal arbejdsdag for en kok på en Michelinrestaurant starter omkring kl. 11.00 og slutter, når køkkenet er vasket ned omkring kl. 01.00.

Så der er lang vej endnu. Men først skal personalet spise. I dag er det frikadeller og så de flødekartofler møgponyen har lavet. Timm Vladimir tager spændt bakken med kartofler ud af ovnen. Stikker forsigtigt en gaffel i dem og smager. Venter og lyser op i et strålende lys.

”De er fandme gode! Sådan mand. Jeg kom også en hel muskatnød i.”

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