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Restaurant og café | 09/11/11

Madanmeldelse: Chai Wong

  • Foto: Uffe Weng Foto: Uffe Weng
  • Foto: Uffe Weng Foto: Uffe Weng
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Maden kommer, som den vil – hurtigt og med masser af autentisk orientalsk charme – på Henrik Yde og co’s nye fusionsasiatiske restaurant.

Asiatisk spisehus kalder Henrik Yde og Lertchai Treetawatchaiwong selv deres sjette restaurant i København (parret driver derudover Sra Bua på Siam Kempinski hotellet i Bangkok).

Chai Wong på hjørnet af Thorvaldsensvej og H.C. Ørstedsvej blander nemlig frit elementer fra de thailandske, vietnamesiske, kinesiske og japanske køkkener med et indslag af gademad, som man kender den fra Bangkok.

Indretningsmæssigt trækker Chai Wong til dels på Yde og co.’s tidligere restauranter. Alkoverne, hvor man kan ligge til bords, er hentet fra Ricemarket og det samme er vel de lovligt små bistroborde, restaurantens intimitet og de mange puder, man sidder omgivet af, minder lidt om Kiin Kiin. Belysningen i lokalet med mørke china style træpaneler på væggene er absolut dæmpet, så husk læsebriller eller pandelampe, hvis De vil kunne tyde menuen.

Læs også: Hot asiatisk miks på Kiin Kiins nye Chai Wong

Priserne ligger på 125-195 kr. for hovedretterne, hvilket vil sige i mellemlejet. Vi lagde ud med lidt snacks, karakterfulde reje- og rischips med en meget luftig chilidip, formentlig fra sifon.

Hertil et glas udmærket Charpentier champagne, som står i 95 kr. for et normalt glas, 135 kr. for et stort og 375 kr. for en hel flaske. 375 kr. er, så vidt jeg husker, den laveste pris, jeg endnu har oplevet på en flaske champagne i København, så da bobler passer fint til asiatisk mad (så længe den ikke er alt for stærk) fortsatte vi ad denne vej.

Ifølge stedets hjemmeside er der mulighed for at bestille en Family Style Dinner, hvor fem-syv småretter efter kokkens behag kommer ind i tilfældig orden, efterhånden som de bliver færdige.

For at være sikre på at komme ordentlig rundt i kortet gik vi dog a la carte og bestilte i alt fire forretter tilsammen, efter at have clearet med værten, at portionerne lå inden for rammerne af en almindelig appetit og er anrettet med henblik på deling.

En de karakteristiske forhold omkring de asiatiske køkkener er, at de forskellige retter tilgår bordet i skøn uorden.

Læs også: De 5 kinesiske

Jeg må blankt erkende, at jeg aldrig som lineært tænkende ærkeeuropæer helt har vænnet mig til dette gastronomiske anarki, men det ville unægtelig være en forgæves kamp mod overmagten at bilde sig ind, at man kan ændre flere milliarder menneskers madkultur.

Sådan var det også her på Chai Wong – de friske ruller, sashimien og de dampende varme dim sums kom ind samtidig, således at sidstnævnte desværre nåede at blive smålunkne, før jeg nåede så langt.

Da vores fjerde forret, bøfsalat, tillige kom ind på en ret stor tallerken, var der faktisk dårligt plads på det lille bord. Sådan skal det åbenbart være, når man går autentisk asiatisk.

Samtlige forretter var i øvrigt glimrende. De to friske Viet-inspirerede nem ruller havde fyld af andekonfit, rejer og masser af krydderurter. Den ledsagende sataysauce til at dyppe i var anderledes frisk og knap så sød som vanligt.

De tre dim sums kom ind i en traditionel bambusbakke. Ovenpå lå et par absolut lækre, dybstegte »rejebrød« drysset med sesam og fyldt med en blendet fars af reje og masser af grønne krydderurter. Inde i damperen lå så et par traditionelle hagau, dampede risdejspakker med fyld af tigerreje og to styks shumai dumplings, som er åbne i toppen, med fyld af velkrydret svinekød.

Sashimien var en fusion af Japan og Thailand. Fisken – laks og en ikke nærmere angiven hvid fisk – var skåret tyndt som til carpaccio og effektfuldt dryppet med lime, ingefær, soja og korianderblade. Glimrende. 

Læs også:Restaurant-redaktøren anbefaler

Stor tilfredshed også med bøfsalaten, som bestod af bl.a. grønne salatblade, mynte, koriander, rødløg, cocktailtomater og grillet oksekød. Marinaden var på korrekt vis både meget limesyrlig, fiskesauce-smagende og fyrigt hed og brændende – herligt nok, selv om vores champagne øjeblikkelig gik i knæ.

Kort pause og så fik vi de to hovedretter ind, som var valgt fra den lille sektion af signaturretter hentet fra gadekøkkenet. Først en gang rustik moo pad gra paw, hakket stegt svinekød heftigt krydret med hellig basilikum og chili med et spejlæg på toppen – thailandsk biksemad med turbobrænder – champagnen måtte igen en tur ned at bide i gulvtæppet.

Den anden hovedret bestod af tigerrejer bagt med risnudler krydret med stjerneanis og løvstikke – også godt. Egentlig var vi mætte nu, men pligten kaldte i form af testning af et par desserter.

Ved nabobordet havde jeg fået øje på et overdimensioneret aflangt træfad med banankage og kokosis, som jeg absolut måtte smage. Den smagte nøjagtig på en gang lige så trygt og pornoagtig som forventet, ikke mindst fordi kokosisen var saltet.

Isen af earl grey te placeret på en herlig sprød crumble med stjerneanis var væsentlig mindre i omfang, men også meget lækker i al sin enkelhed.

Fra det meget veldisponerede vinkort, som udover en fin selektion af Asien-venlige hvidvine også bød på en håndfuld specialdesignede øl fra Mikkeller, fik vi et par glas blommevin (65 kr.). Sjovt at smage, men formentlig ikke en drik, jeg bliver forfalden til lige med det første.

Punktum for en lettere kaotisk, men også meget autentisk og madmæssigt tilfredsstillende aften. Man kan ikke sige andet end, at holdet bag Chai Wong udfrier de gastronomiske forventninger, som det fusionsasiatiske koncept lægger op til. Vi kvitterer med fire af de gode.

Hvad: Chai Wong
Hvor: Thorvaldsensvej 2, Frederiksberg
Hvordan: Tlf. 27 52 35 65, chaiwong.dk
Hvor meget: Hovedretter fra 125 kr., Vin fra 215 kr.

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