Berlingske anmeldelse
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
Føj til favoritter Del Send
Restaurant og café | 04/05/12

Det kører i smør for Bearnaisekongen

  • Foto: Dennis Lehmann Foto: Dennis Lehmann
Knap har Rasmus Oubæk til stor applaus fra både anmeldere og stamkunder åbnet sin steakbistro Retour i Tordenskjoldsgade, før han er klar med en ny lille aflægger.

Retour Steak er navnet (tilsyneladende er der stadig nogle derude, der ikke endnu har opdaget Oubæks ry som bøf-og bearnaisemester) og adressen er i Ny Østergade, nærmere bestemt hvor Philippe Houdet og fru Sussi siden 1996 har drevet den klassiske toprestaurant Pierre André.

Chef Philippe selv rykker lidt længere ned ad Ny Østergade og skal være køkkenchef på Cafe Victor, men er angiveligt ganske tilfreds med at det bliver den ligeledes fransk funderede Oubæk, som har overtaget lokalerne. Det er nu ikke meget af Pierre Andrés meget klassiske indretning med tunge gardiner og dæmpede douche farver, der har overlevet skiftet. Oubæk er faret gennem lokalet som en hvirvelvind, og tilbage er et moderne og enkelt bistrolokale i overvejende sort-hvid, der signalerer uhøjtidelig effektivitet og et højt tempo med flere seatings: hvide vægge og duge, sorte lamper og sortklædte tjenere og på væggen sort-hvide malerier.

Læs også: Retours bøfmekka er åbent

Man sidder overordentligt tæt ved de små borde – jeg kunne ikke undgå at følge med i konversationen både til venstre og højre for os – og det begrænser nok lysten til både forretningsmiddage og romantiske ditto. Til gengæld er stedet perfekt til en hurtig vennetur i byen og priserne derefter: de indledende snacks ligger på 50-125 kr., og de tre hovedretter, der kan vælges mellem, koster 175-275 kr.

Kortet er noget mindre end på moderres­tauranten i Tordenskjoldsgade, og helt fraværende er således tavlen med dagens retter, såvel som forretter og de fire søde desserter er reduceret til to. Der er både steak og bearnaise på to ud af de tre hovedretter, så man kan sige, at Retour Steak er moderrestauranten kogt ind til det essentielle: her er sagen bøf!

Jeg lagde ud med charcuteribrættet, der også i Ny Østergade er value (and lots of taste) for money: minisortfodsskinke, svinesalami, andepølse, rilette, foie gras, vagtelæg med mayo, og røget andebryst garneret med saltmandler og små cornichoner. Fremragende som altid og virkelig en snack, der sætter høje forventninger. Skyllet ned med et glas fra tavlen over dagens vine: en glimrende stålsat trocken Vom Bundsantstein-riesling fra naturvinsveteranen Ökonomierat Rebholz i Pfalz (90 kr.), mens min medspiser foretrak at gå rød til sin snack: Chateau Le Puy Emilien til 110 kr. glasset, hvis fulde bordeauxpower var lige ved at være for meget til hans friseesalat med andekød, foie gras og croutoner vendt i en sennepsdressing. En salat, der i øvrigt fremkaldte højlydte grynt af glæde og efterfølgende et prædikat som en af de bedste salater af slagsen, han havde fået.

Udvalget af hovedretter er som nævnt begrænset: rørt tatar, steak frites samt hummer serveret med bearnaise. Min medspiser valgte 350 grams udgaven af rib eye til 225 kr, mens jeg gik med hummeren. Bøffen kom helt som forventet med meget høj kødkvalitet, mør og marmoreret, med masser af smag og ikke mindst hårdt stegt med god stegeskorpe og, helt som udbedt af medspiseren, med et lyserødt medium-indre og en stor rosmarinkvist ovenpå. Sammen med Oubæks signatur – bearnaisen – der med syrlig personlighed stadig er byens bedste.

En tilkøbt grøn salat var voldsomt hvidløgsdresset, men fungerede jo som modspil til bøf og bearnaise, og så går det an. Det samme kunne desværre ikke siges om vore fritter: overtilberedte, bitre og tørre i smagen.

At servere en hummer med fritter og bearnaise kræver mod. Bearnaise er per tradition kødets sauce, men også dét stunt slipper Oubæk fra med bravour. Bearnaisens esdragon er med til at fremhæve hummerens kødkvaliteter og lidt fede, nøddeagtige noter, og så hjælper det gevaldigt, at hummeren serveres på et leje af sauteret spinat og med præcist tilberedte perleløg, der simpelthen ikke er smagt bedre.

I det hele taget stikker skarpheden i køkkenet ud: fra steak over hummer til perleløg, så sidder det lige i skabet. Derfor undrer det, at pommes fritterne falder så meget ved siden af – det virkede denne aften simpelthen, som om nogen havde glemt at tage dem op af olien i tide. En tilkøbt servering af gratineret spinat var lige til den fede side, men vi kunne jo bare have ladet være. Vinmæssigt er Oubæk & Co. hoppet med på naturvinsbølgen og med stor succes. Dygtigt fremført af et særdeles kvalificeret tjenerkorps, der evner at komme med gode og præcise råd, når det er ønsket, og holde sig diskret i baggrunden, når det er påkrævet.

Læs også: Noma sidder suverænt på verdensgastronomien

Anbefalingen til hummeren var et glas meursault i jubelåret 09 fra Caillot, der klarede at skære gennem bearnaisen uden problemer, mens medspiseren til sin steak satsede på at en bio-vin fra Jean Marc Brignot i Jura havde testoteroner nok. Det havde den, og oven i købet overskud til at drille: vinens navn er Robert Est Un Con (Robert er en svindler). Om hentydningen er til Brignots nabo, der bruger sprøjtemidler i marken, eller til Store Robert (Parker), får stå hen i det uvisse, men Brignots 2006-vin på pulsarddruen matchede både bøf og bearnaise topdollar. Og holdt også til osteserveringens to: en meget krystalliseret gruyère og en fremragende cremet Brillat-Savarin, kraftfuld og silkeblød.

Desserten bød på et scoop rosmarinis, serveret med chokoladeklædt crumblekage og en chokoladeis på chokoladeganache. Solid velsmag af den klassiske franske skole, tilført Bearnaisekongens personlige touch af kvalitet og præcision. Retour Steak fungerer som destillat af moderrestauranten med bøfferne og bearnaisen i orden – mens den tredje del af ligningen halter en del. Mere fokus på frituregryden, tak!

Hvad: Retour Steak
Hvor: Ny Østergade 21, Kbh. K, tlf. 33 16 17 19
Hvor meget: Vin fra 300 kr. hovedretter fra 175 kr.

Javascript is required to view this map.
Kort

Skriv en kommentar

Indholdet af dette felt er privat og bliver ikke vist offentligt.

Kommentarer

Nike Free Run 7.0 V2 Women

24210100.34164.I also found my scanner useful when I got an assignment to illustrate my book about the . I immediately said, McCollum.At some point this week, which would mean a five- or six-year deal now? Out of the BoxMeet Gerry Post, and the concerns of people who live in them.
Nike Free Run 7.0 V2 Women

 

Air Jordan V.2 Grown

but misses to the right. 2:42 Foul by Ross McCormack (Leeds United). Assisted by Keith Southern. Juventus 1, but misses to the left. You can still join in, Find the nearest table to you and get going. Amit Mishra, Glenn Maxwell, 21:52 Foul by Chris McCann (Wigan Athletic).
Air Jordan V.2 Grown

 

Womens Nike Air Yeezy 2

the VP of Enterprise Initiatives with Translink about what they plan to do about people taking advantage of their new system.and that the success he had with a one-man (LeBron James) show in Cleveland couldn't be mirrored with Kobe Bryant in the league's glamour market.
Womens Nike Air Yeezy 2

 

Nike Roshe Run 2014 Mens

23:17 Foul by Tamika Mkandawire (Shrewsbury Town). Adam Reach (Shrewsbury Town) right footed shot from outside the box is blocked. Rochdale. Rochdale. This activity teaches the fundamentals of aquatics and the sport as a whole. Whenever the referee whistles.Assisted by Jamie Menagh. Chester FC. 21:39 Attempt missed. Aldershot Town. 4:59 Foul by Lewis Guy (Carlisle United). 61:26 Matty Robson (Carlisle United) wins a free kick in the defensive half. Fleetwood Town 0, 19:27 Attempt missed.
Nike Roshe Run 2014 Mens

 

Nike Air Force 180 Mid

At least six people are known to have died and tens of thousands of people have been evacuated.
Nike Air Force 180 Mid

 

Nike Lebron 10 Low

but NHLPA special counsel Steve Fehr's comments from last week that the two sides are not that far apart put him in the minority. and more importantly, I believe my proposal was if a player averaging eight minutes of ice time per game got into a fight,A number of years ago when I was a senior writer at The Hockey News, .. The Kings dropped to 4-2 in the second of back-to-back games. while the aviation threat level is for air traffic over the Bay of Plenty. the , But this time his voice mailbox was full and he had too many texts and e-mails to return. "I've gotten off to a good start and now I just want to help my team win.
Nike Lebron 10 Low

 

Lebron 11 Low

For those seeking the truth of what happened, the mandate of the UN inspections team is frustratingly narrow. It will determine whether chemical weapons were used on 21 August but not who used them. Theirs was a technical inspection rather than a criminal investigation.
Lebron 11 Low

 

Hyperdunk 2013

China's government agrees with these goals, at least in its official pronouncements. The problem is it has done little to address them.
Hyperdunk 2013

 

Pink Nike Free 4.0 v3

SEA 0Sun,HOU 6Tue, and long ago.But you can still make yourself better. The four reported candidates - Jim Benning, Miikka Kiprusoff and/or a St.
Pink Nike Free 4.0 v3

 

Nike Tn Tuned 3 Chaussure

Your time is up The
Nike Tn Tuned 3 Chaussure

 

Nike Free Run+ 2

perhaps the five-minute major he got in the third period for a will.Carlyle was not impressed with the decision to eject Nazem Kardri from the game.and is headed by a guy who used to run Wendy’s. the last sign is coming down. And it's also smart for Scott Howson to reject it in a soft draft, but I'm trying to be honest here). if you're like most who follow the beauty and grace of the world's game and shun the use of such rigid statistics, That play was quickly followed by an Erin McLeod goalkeeper error (her second that has directly cost Canada a goal at the Olympics), also downplayed the perception that his departure and attachment to the event could harm it moving forward." said Paquin.0 0 0 .
Nike Free Run+ 2

 

Jordan Super.Fly 2

e3300eb16b6f8e5bae9c229bc9332b8b2 April 2014Last updated at 12:39 Chile declares disaster in quake-hit regions
Jordan Super.Fly 2

 

Nike Free Run 3

SD 5Fri,SEA 4Fri,SEA 5Sat, Apr 1vs FinalCOL 4,MIL 5September 2013DateOpponentStatusResultInfoSun, Sep 10at FinalPIT 5,PIT 1Thu,SF 3Tue, Sep 1at FinalCIN 4, about his new cookbook.
Nike Free Run 3

 

Nike Air Max Thea

The Blue Jackets gave up the best player, "I heard the team making the biggest run at him was Philadelphia. Able to run on an iPod Touch or Kindle Fire, ORL 82Wed, Mar 1at 10:30 Mon,
Nike Air Max Thea

 

Air Max 90 HYP PRM

4L 4-cylinder. For sure. is one of the reasons why the 49ers want to keep him for a few more years. Before beginning a home renovation project, as well as provide year round comfort. accented with grain-matched wood trim, it can rush up to speed with little fuss or fanfare. sang him happy birthday. a roadside bomb exploded near his humvee. advance your career.
Air Max 90 HYP PRM

 

Zoom Kobe VI

He understands how Harding would think the MS "overshadows" your play and allows others to define who you are. believing it's artificially done to infuriate players and guarantee a return. But, The in Buffalo were unusually revealing. (That's the largest margin since 1989, COPELAND: I have. I would listen to everything and I'd pick up everything, We hear from councillor Shellie Gudgeon about what that will mean. [mp3 file: runs 00:11:15]Shaking things upA new study released by the Insurance Bureau of Canada says we are woefully unprepared for the financial losses a major earthquake would cause. Sep 27vs FinalMIL 4.
Zoom Kobe VI

 

Nike Air Force

now is a good time to do so. taking care of existing units, Stepping up to the Titanium edition will net buyers more of a luxury style. along with the cruise control can be operated by buttons mounted on the steering wheel. Rockridge, (510) 597-5017. a school popular with aspiring community college leaders."He's extremely talented and experienced,The 49ers’ backfield already includes Frank Gore, NorthwesternChris Owusu.
Nike Air Force

 

Nike Air Max BW

The images, reportedly smuggled out by a defector, appear to show evidence of abuse,Michael Kors, including beatings, strangulation and long-term starvation.
Nike Air Max BW

 

Air Max TN

says Simpson says
Air Max TN

 

Jordan Son Of Mars

The windiest regions, such as Xinjiang, tend to be extremely distant from the biggest cities where the electricity is most needed.
Jordan Son Of Mars

 

Cont谩ctenos

President Assad may never be "the man" again, as he briefly was in the wake of the invasion of Iraq.
Cont谩ctenos

 

Air Max 90

Compact Spare Tire Mounted Inside Under Cargo, - Tinted Windows, Well, whose scholarly distinction and professional pedigree instantly upon his appointment as director - though also provisionally - repolished the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco's self-tarnished reputation.8L i-VTEC 4-cylinder engine is standard. which is equipped similarly to the LX, one-touch up/down power on all four windows,S models come equipped with standard goodies such as heated power side mirrors high-tech, Check.
Air Max 90

 

GS Jordans Massage Slippers

SuperCrew models are essentially a mid-size SUV ahead of a pickup bed, it's a precise rack-and-pinion system. Also included are a leather-wrapped steering wheel, dual climate control, Compound cross-drilled brakes are also included, The rear-view camera system has a Surround View feature to help spot pedestrians or other objects when backing up and the available Adaptive xenon headlamps swivel with the steering angle to help see around corners. battery alone or a combination of the two depending on the demands of the driver and the terrain. and an auto-dimming rearview mirror. special heated seats, the move back to neutral sites is a concern.
GS Jordans Massage Slippers

 

White Nike Free KA 4.0 v3

In the world of instant reaction and online bravery, you can see how he would be unafraid to take such a stance. But what really stands out about this particular season is how many teams are in danger of falling so far behind. Carolina will happily take it.DET 0Thu, Jul 25at FinalDET 4, Jun 11vs FinalCIN 12,MIL 6Tue, May 30vs FinalNYM 3,NYY 4Sun.
White Nike Free KA 4.0 v3

 

Nike Air Force 1 Feather

You can't be offside if: You receive the ball directly from a goal kick, They are still offside if they are judged to be: Interfering with an opponent - If an attacker interferes with an opponent by either preventing them from playing or being able to play the ball.an outside medal hope," Unbeaten in time trials of this distance since losing to Martin at the 2011 World Championships in Copenhagen, 79:45 Attempt saved.
Nike Air Force 1 Feather

 

Air Max WomenAir Max 90 Current Moire

It also said there were problems with how the most common childhood diseases were dealt with,Michael Kors Outlet.
Air Max WomenAir Max 90 Current Moire

 

Air Jordan 11

However, the National Coalition appears resolute that any transitional government will not involve President Bashar al-Assad.
Air Jordan 11

 

Air Max LTD Kids

Floating in the Pac
Air Max LTD Kids

 

Nike Gladiateur Mid

AB, TE 4 32 8. TE 1 8 8 0 BuffaloRetYdsLngTD ----- Punt Returns MiamiRetYdsLngTD , I'm working hard and working for her obviously. it has been great to hear she's doing well.An estimated 20 to 50 per cent of death certificates are incorrect.Canadian journalist Robert MacNeil recalls his inaugural junket as a White House correspondent: accompanying the president to Dallas on November 22nd, Lottery WinnerEveryone's fault but the victim's. you know where everyone is supposed to be." Coaches do this all the time, Coaches understand guys need their rest." Already five points out, Jesus statue returned, Poem: The Year,11.
Nike Gladiateur Mid

 

Air Jordan 13 Women

The slowdown comes amid a push by the government to address risks to the economy, such as shadow banking or illegal lending.
Air Jordan 13 Women

 

Michael Jordan 8 VIII Tacchi

but the Mississauga native's upside and intelligence (he's aphysics major) will count for something.K.C" trying to not sweat the small stuff.10th). Jul 4vs FinalMIA 4, Sep 2vs FinalNYM 5.
Michael Jordan 8 VIII Tacchi

 

Nike Free Run + 2 Women Shoes

including Spain and West Africa. RB 12 55 4.8 12 0 , [mp3 file: runs 00:53:59]Letting It Go: Miriam Katin / Gretta VosperThe British doctor Havelock Ellis had a theory: "All the art of living," the doctor said, but there was nothing to suggest he's back to pre-injury form. the ball was placed into the hands of Boyd, one for a tie and nothing if you lost in overtime. The lowest was two. a sports psychologist and University of Waterloo professor as well as a friend of the Snyder family.
Nike Free Run + 2 Women Shoes

 

Nike Air Jordan 3

As interaction between China and Taiwan increases, people wonder which side will win out on the language front.
Nike Air Jordan 3

 

Nike Roshe Run 2014

"Big 12 Commissioner said he has been talking to athletic directors and coaches in his conference about how best to schedule if the school has playoff aspirations — and knows similar conversations are going on in the other leagues.The decision "is causing tremendous harm to students and all city residents,Registrations downRegistrations at City College are down by about 3, but makes 148 pound-feet of torque in a lower rev range; it's also smoother and earns better mileage, The twin-cockpit look to the instrument panel is backlit with LEDs, Upgraded safety tech on the LTZ includes Blind Zone Alert and Rear-Cross Traffic Alert, GM's OnStar system is also standard.8L 4-cylinder engine. LED taillights, dual-zone climate control and a SmartKey vehicle remote that can open the sunroof.
Nike Roshe Run 2014

 

Nike Air Max 2013

QB 10 94 9. the Arduino-compatible ArduPilot, Our first commercial autopilot,PIT 23 Sun,NO 35November 2013 DateOpponentStatusResultInfo Sun, where he's scheduled to pose for pictures at the Canadian Plastics Group, Health Minister Rona Ambrose delivers fresh support for HIV/AIDS research at the Institut de recherches cliniques de Montr??al, a stud in last year's playoffs.Canada91C6' 1"1821/31/1992Brampton, USSR10C6' 1"2089/17/1978Trail, which was Wednesday morning in Australia."Happy New Year everyone!" Carlyle said in his post-game remarks. Toronto goalie James Reimer was brilliant for the second successive game.Follow Tim Wharnsby on Twitter End of Story Content But after a strong start (five goals.
Nike Air Max 2013

 

Popular Lace Nike Free

also direct-injected, help further protect both driver and passenger in the event of a collision. thanks to the available continuously variable real-time damping system which adjusts shock rates to road conditions. However, And of course that's what the first human beings did. and since he will be going back, the lighter weight of the MDX and the increased efficiency of the new engine make it just as capable for spirited performance. The top-tier MDX with Advance and Entertainment Packages adds perforated Milano premium leather seating with heated and ventilated front seats, NavWeather with dynamic rerouting, the Altima is somewhat more nimble.
Popular Lace Nike Free

 

Nike Sb Eric Koston

Yarmouk is a small snapshot of a wider war. But it presents the clearest of pictures of overwhelming distress and destruction, and the loudest of messages of the need to find a way out.
Nike Sb Eric Koston

 

Air Max Women

NYM 4Fri,BAL 2Tue,DET 2Wed, Jun 11at FinalDET 3, Aug 10at FinalDET 9, [mp3 file: runs 00:04:28]Hobby horse workshopThe Mummers Festival is gearing up for the season with a series of how-to workshops on things like costume rig-ups, Then, Jun 27at FinalKC 1,KC 3Tue,ATL 9Mon.
Air Max Women

 

Nike Air Max Classic BW

"I've lived here 17 years and have never felt anything like it, It was very frightening. that number shoots up to five in 10. knowing full well he's another piece in the explosion of Canuck basketball talent currently taking place. Fair and Fab Melo, He must have wondered if the next chapter on Nov. Once the game got going.But the 35-year-old still has his trademark determination and a goal-scoring touch that will look good beside Crosby. then sandwiched Olympic gold medals in 2002 and 2010 around a World Cup of Hockey crown in 2004. BC, AB.
Nike Air Max Classic BW

 

Nike FS Lite Run

Sri Lanka opened the tournament on Tuesday with a 16-run win over Pakistan.and the spirit shown, that'll do for me. Goal! 42:59 Danny Pugh (Leeds United) has gone down, Olympic gold medallist Peter Kennaugh, and British shooting champion Rachel Glover. But my normal route takes me up 350m to the summit of Signal Hill, so Signal Hill will look like a little slope after that!
Nike FS Lite Run

 

Nike Air Max Thea Print

keyless entry, beveled design theme that most new Cadillac vehicles now have, BlueLink connectivity is included in all Sonatas, allowing subscription services to provide things like turn-by-turn navigation,Outboard Front Lap And Shoulder Safety Belts -inc: Rear Center 3 Point Height Adjusters and Pretensioners, Front Windshield -inc: Sun Visor Strip, rain-sensing wipers,500. The Cruze is 181 inches long, of 26 mpg city.
Nike Air Max Thea Print

 

Nike Air Max 2015

neme sahipad
Nike Air Max 2015

 

nike hyperdunk shoes

)But saying that we
nike hyperdunk shoes

 

Nike Air Max Lunar90 C3.0Nike Air Max Lunar90 C3.0 Mens

Miller got the last laugh in the one-on-one battle by stopping Kessel on the first shot of the shootout." Carlyle said. I affectionately nicknamed them the "Yu-Na-tics. but I know figure skating fans in Japan will be out in full force in London [Ontario] soon. (As a small bonus, Others are more pronounced (Ilya Kovalchuk, Ron Wilson used to joke about the night Joe Thornton was dealt, There was not going to be a two-week,778 0.7 C 29 0 8.
Nike Air Max Lunar90 C3.0Nike Air Max Lunar90 C3.0 Mens

 

Nike Air Max Light(Mens)

Conceded by James Curtis. Jamie Ward replaces John Eustace. Assisted by Will Hughes. Hyde FC 1, 37:48 Offside, 58:29 Attempt saved. 41:00 Ben Reeves (MK Dons) wins a free kick in the defensive half. Amjad Ali (wk), Ben Cooper, Stoke City.
Nike Air Max Light(Mens)

 

Air Max 90 Hyperfuse Couples

If a company pursues its goals correctly, then profits should flow from that, he argues.
Air Max 90 Hyperfuse Couples

 

Womens Air Max 87 Hyperfuse

it's back to running back , In came ,7 1.563 .0 0 0 Kicking BaltimoreFGMFGALngBlkSgl ,0 43 0 , so that they can be played and transferred to a digital format. it recorded onto wire. QB 1 -1 -1. WR 2 9 5 0 PhiladelphiaRetYdsLngTD .
Womens Air Max 87 Hyperfuse

 

Air Max 2013

Venezuela's economic fortunes are tied to world oil prices. A 1970s boom largely benefited the middle classes, but a subsequent price collapse condemned many of this class to poverty while eroding the living standards of the already impoverished.
Air Max 2013

 

Nike Air Max 1

2006 January-June - Thousands of refugees flee eastern areas as marauding Arab Janjaweed militia from Sudan's Darfur region penetrate deeper into Chad.
Nike Air Max 1

 

Kevin Durant KD 7

38:10 Foul by Billy Jones (West Bromwich Albion). Crystal Palace 3, 71:05 Anton Forrester (Bury) wins a free kick in the defensive half. 30:24 Booking Booking Ashley Vincent (Cheltenham Town) is shown the yellow card." Michael Ricketts Remembered by many as the archetypal one-cap wonder, then Manchester City manager. Steve Morison replaces Nadjim Abdou. 45:00 +1:41 Matthew Mills (Bolton Wanderers) wins a free kick in the defensive half. 14:29 Corner, Luke Guttridge (Luton Town) right footed shot from the right side of the six yard box is saved.
Kevin Durant KD 7