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Restaurant og café | 04/05/12

Det kører i smør for Bearnaisekongen

  • Foto: Dennis Lehmann Foto: Dennis Lehmann
Knap har Rasmus Oubæk til stor applaus fra både anmeldere og stamkunder åbnet sin steakbistro Retour i Tordenskjoldsgade, før han er klar med en ny lille aflægger.

Retour Steak er navnet (tilsyneladende er der stadig nogle derude, der ikke endnu har opdaget Oubæks ry som bøf-og bearnaisemester) og adressen er i Ny Østergade, nærmere bestemt hvor Philippe Houdet og fru Sussi siden 1996 har drevet den klassiske toprestaurant Pierre André.

Chef Philippe selv rykker lidt længere ned ad Ny Østergade og skal være køkkenchef på Cafe Victor, men er angiveligt ganske tilfreds med at det bliver den ligeledes fransk funderede Oubæk, som har overtaget lokalerne. Det er nu ikke meget af Pierre Andrés meget klassiske indretning med tunge gardiner og dæmpede douche farver, der har overlevet skiftet. Oubæk er faret gennem lokalet som en hvirvelvind, og tilbage er et moderne og enkelt bistrolokale i overvejende sort-hvid, der signalerer uhøjtidelig effektivitet og et højt tempo med flere seatings: hvide vægge og duge, sorte lamper og sortklædte tjenere og på væggen sort-hvide malerier.

Læs også: Retours bøfmekka er åbent

Man sidder overordentligt tæt ved de små borde – jeg kunne ikke undgå at følge med i konversationen både til venstre og højre for os – og det begrænser nok lysten til både forretningsmiddage og romantiske ditto. Til gengæld er stedet perfekt til en hurtig vennetur i byen og priserne derefter: de indledende snacks ligger på 50-125 kr., og de tre hovedretter, der kan vælges mellem, koster 175-275 kr.

Kortet er noget mindre end på moderres­tauranten i Tordenskjoldsgade, og helt fraværende er således tavlen med dagens retter, såvel som forretter og de fire søde desserter er reduceret til to. Der er både steak og bearnaise på to ud af de tre hovedretter, så man kan sige, at Retour Steak er moderrestauranten kogt ind til det essentielle: her er sagen bøf!

Jeg lagde ud med charcuteribrættet, der også i Ny Østergade er value (and lots of taste) for money: minisortfodsskinke, svinesalami, andepølse, rilette, foie gras, vagtelæg med mayo, og røget andebryst garneret med saltmandler og små cornichoner. Fremragende som altid og virkelig en snack, der sætter høje forventninger. Skyllet ned med et glas fra tavlen over dagens vine: en glimrende stålsat trocken Vom Bundsantstein-riesling fra naturvinsveteranen Ökonomierat Rebholz i Pfalz (90 kr.), mens min medspiser foretrak at gå rød til sin snack: Chateau Le Puy Emilien til 110 kr. glasset, hvis fulde bordeauxpower var lige ved at være for meget til hans friseesalat med andekød, foie gras og croutoner vendt i en sennepsdressing. En salat, der i øvrigt fremkaldte højlydte grynt af glæde og efterfølgende et prædikat som en af de bedste salater af slagsen, han havde fået.

Udvalget af hovedretter er som nævnt begrænset: rørt tatar, steak frites samt hummer serveret med bearnaise. Min medspiser valgte 350 grams udgaven af rib eye til 225 kr, mens jeg gik med hummeren. Bøffen kom helt som forventet med meget høj kødkvalitet, mør og marmoreret, med masser af smag og ikke mindst hårdt stegt med god stegeskorpe og, helt som udbedt af medspiseren, med et lyserødt medium-indre og en stor rosmarinkvist ovenpå. Sammen med Oubæks signatur – bearnaisen – der med syrlig personlighed stadig er byens bedste.

En tilkøbt grøn salat var voldsomt hvidløgsdresset, men fungerede jo som modspil til bøf og bearnaise, og så går det an. Det samme kunne desværre ikke siges om vore fritter: overtilberedte, bitre og tørre i smagen.

At servere en hummer med fritter og bearnaise kræver mod. Bearnaise er per tradition kødets sauce, men også dét stunt slipper Oubæk fra med bravour. Bearnaisens esdragon er med til at fremhæve hummerens kødkvaliteter og lidt fede, nøddeagtige noter, og så hjælper det gevaldigt, at hummeren serveres på et leje af sauteret spinat og med præcist tilberedte perleløg, der simpelthen ikke er smagt bedre.

I det hele taget stikker skarpheden i køkkenet ud: fra steak over hummer til perleløg, så sidder det lige i skabet. Derfor undrer det, at pommes fritterne falder så meget ved siden af – det virkede denne aften simpelthen, som om nogen havde glemt at tage dem op af olien i tide. En tilkøbt servering af gratineret spinat var lige til den fede side, men vi kunne jo bare have ladet være. Vinmæssigt er Oubæk & Co. hoppet med på naturvinsbølgen og med stor succes. Dygtigt fremført af et særdeles kvalificeret tjenerkorps, der evner at komme med gode og præcise råd, når det er ønsket, og holde sig diskret i baggrunden, når det er påkrævet.

Læs også: Noma sidder suverænt på verdensgastronomien

Anbefalingen til hummeren var et glas meursault i jubelåret 09 fra Caillot, der klarede at skære gennem bearnaisen uden problemer, mens medspiseren til sin steak satsede på at en bio-vin fra Jean Marc Brignot i Jura havde testoteroner nok. Det havde den, og oven i købet overskud til at drille: vinens navn er Robert Est Un Con (Robert er en svindler). Om hentydningen er til Brignots nabo, der bruger sprøjtemidler i marken, eller til Store Robert (Parker), får stå hen i det uvisse, men Brignots 2006-vin på pulsarddruen matchede både bøf og bearnaise topdollar. Og holdt også til osteserveringens to: en meget krystalliseret gruyère og en fremragende cremet Brillat-Savarin, kraftfuld og silkeblød.

Desserten bød på et scoop rosmarinis, serveret med chokoladeklædt crumblekage og en chokoladeis på chokoladeganache. Solid velsmag af den klassiske franske skole, tilført Bearnaisekongens personlige touch af kvalitet og præcision. Retour Steak fungerer som destillat af moderrestauranten med bøfferne og bearnaisen i orden – mens den tredje del af ligningen halter en del. Mere fokus på frituregryden, tak!

Hvad: Retour Steak
Hvor: Ny Østergade 21, Kbh. K, tlf. 33 16 17 19
Hvor meget: Vin fra 300 kr. hovedretter fra 175 kr.

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