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Restaurant og café | 09/11/12

Anmeldelse: Pluto

  • Foto: Martin Sylvest Andersen Foto: Martin Sylvest Andersen
  • Foto: Martin Sylvest Andersen Foto: Martin Sylvest Andersen
  12  
Små deleretter og indmad i lange baner lyder det vellykkede koncept på Pluto - Oubæk og Marcussens nyeste skud på stammen.

...

Man skal passe på med at kannibalisere sig selv. Derfor har kokken Rasmus Oubæk og sommelieren Jesper Marcussen, som i forvejen ejer Retour og Retour Steak, valgt et anderledes koncept for nyåbnede Pluto i Borgergade.

Prismæssigt er vi stadig i mellem- eller bistroklassen, men spisekortet er helt anderledes bygget op end på Retourrestauranterne med en stor sektion for indledende snacks/appetizers og så ellers halve retter for resten af pengene, som generelt er arrangeret, så de kan deles.

Hvis ikke man orker at tage stilling til den alenlange liste af numre på kortet, kan man vælge at lade kokke vælge 12 (400 kr.) eller 20 (650 kr.) serveringer, som kommer ind ’family style’, hvilket er et nudansk ord for fadservering.

Vi var ærligt talt noget i tvivl om, hvilken vej vi skulle gå: På den ene side fristede det at læne sig tilbage og lade retterne regne ned over bordet uden. På den anden side kunne jeg se en række numre på kortet med potentiel status som livretter, som jeg nødigt ville gå glip af.

Selv om det er Bjørn Rosendal Jacobsen, som før har rørt i gryder hos blandt andre Tetsuya i Sydney og WD50 i New York, så er det umiskendeligt Oubæks signatur, som præger kortet. Det vil her sige flere retter med indmad, end jeg nogensinde tidligere har set på nogen dansk restaurant - og det er ikke Stryhns grovhakkede, vi snakker om.

Eftersom jeg elsker indmad og ville sikre mig at få alle indvolde med, endte vi med at gå a la carte og valgte en lang stribe af retter til deling – en øvelse som dog kræver, at man holder tungen lige i munden under bestillingen.

Vi startede i det små med sprøde hvede croutoner som italienske crostini med henholdsvis en saute af andelever og -hjerter samt lun rillette og så et par friterede kroketter med fyld af kalvebrissel. Kompromisløs velsmag allerede fra første bid.

Jesper Marcussen, som er er en af byens absolut bedste værter og sommelierer pt., foreslog et glas fra husets sektion af orange vine. Det er første gang noget sted på kloden, at jeg har set en særskilt afdeling for hvidvin, som er macereret med drueskallerne (hvilket tilfører vinen garvesyre, som bliver brun/orange ved oxidering).

Den for en hvidvin uvante garvesyre er velegnet til at skære igennem animalsk fedt, så vildbassen Pico fra naturproducenten Angiolino Maule i Veneto (90,-) ikke bare smagte glimrende, men passede også perfekt til maden.

Også næste ombæring: Oubæks velkendte lune kalveterrine, som er fyldt med hale, tunge og brissel og en skefuld rustik, fedtmættet pâté de campagne lige efter lærebogen. Pâté prøven bestået med UG.

Til næste runde af retter skiftede vi vin til en 2010 Meursault fra Sarnin-Berrux (150,-), som ved første bekendtskab var domineret af vildgær i næsen, men i forbindelse med skaldyrene og fisken skiftede ham og begyndte at opføre sig mere som en klassisk fed og nøddet meursault, dog bestemt med den fornødne syre og mineralitet.

På tallerknerne en grillet tiarmet blæksprutte helt simpelt serveret med citron, olivenolie og et par store grønne spanske chili/ små peberfrugter. Et par af de største knivmuslinger, jeg til dato har set, kom på samme simple måde – dog uden chili.

Og så var der endelig et par stykker stegt pighvar drysset med stegte svampe og kyllingeskind, kartoffel der smagte som skræddersyet til meursaulten.

Kødretterne kom over to ombæringer, først den lettere afdeling bestående af en salat af bitter frisée og rugbrødscroutoner kraftigt forstærket med forskelligt andekød – konfiteret kråse, tynde skiver foie gras og røget bryst.

Vinbjergssnegle, en anden Oubæk signatur blev her kombineret med tynde skiver af kalvehjerte, syltede løg og hvedbrødscroutoner og serveret i en forfriskende grøn sauce, som gav det fornødne modspil til sneglene, som ellers godt kan blive en fad fornøjelse.

I glasset beaujolais, en ung 2011 Morgon Côte de Py vieilles vignes fra Coquelet (80-), som blev afløst af Chambolle Musigny fra Cossard (205,-) til næste kødombæring med tre serveringer, som var mærkbart tungere: Ikke mindst en uimodståelig flækket marvpibe helt enkelt serveret med persille, kapers og skalotteløg vendt i citronolie ovenpå og ristet rugbrød på siden.

Vores kolesteroltal var nu med så høj hast på vej op i det røde felt, at selv brødrene Price ville have gispet, og det fortsatte af samme vej med tre stykker paneret brissel, serveret med løg i forskellige teksturer - bagt som syltede skaller og i puréform – og en god sky.

Og så endelig finalen: Braiserede kalvehaler, presset sammen som varm terrine og serveret med den nedkogte gelatinøse braiseringslage, en skive stegt foie gras ovenpå og for at sætte trumf på kolesterolet et syngende spejlæg på toppen.

En uhyre velsmagende, men også rig grænsende til det pornoagtigt vulgære servering, som fik appetiten til at gå endeligt i knæ.

Det var bestemt ikke af sult, at vi delte en enkelt lille fin dessert bestående af brioche med frisk citrussorbet og papirtynde sprøde marengsflager på toppen.

Basta for en uhyre vellykket aften. Jeg husker ikke umiddelbart, hvornår jeg sidst har oplevet så meget umiddelbar og upretentiøs velsmag, og da slet ikke indmad i så mange forskellige afskygninger. Selvfølgelig trækker det heller ikke ligefrem ned i regnskabet, at det fine koncept følges til dørs af herlige, velserverede vine og glimrende betjening.

Det spiste vi:

Crouton med andelever og –hjerte 35,-
Crouton med lun rilettes 35,-
Croquettes med brissel 40,-
Lun kalveterrine 60,-
Paté de campagne 60,-
Knivmuslinger 85,-
Pighvar med kyllingeskind og svampe 100,-
Grillet blæksprutte med chili 75,-
Marv med persille og kapers 75,-
Snegle med kalvehjerte 80,-
Brissel med løg 95,-
Frisée salat med kråser, foie gras og røget bryst af and 85,-
Kalvehale med foie gras og spejlæg 110,-
Brioche med citronsorbet og marengs 65,-

Hvad: Pluto
Hvor: Borgergade 16 tlf 3316 0016
Hvor meget: ½ hovedret 85,- vin 300,- 12-rettersmenu 400,-

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Anmeldelse: Pluto - Restaurant og café | AOK

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