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Restaurant og café | 22/08/13

Anmeldelse: Amass

Der er format over både gastronomi og rammer på eks-Noma chefen Matt Orlandos nye restaurant, Amass, på Refshaleøen.

Amass er formentlig den mest hypede restaurantåbning herhjemme til dato – nationalt som internationalt. Ikke alene har indehaver og chefkok, Matt Orlando, et respektindgydende CV med chefposter på Noma, The Fat Duck, Bernadin og Per Se. Den høje, præsentable, gennemsympatiske amerikaner er tillige enhver svigermors drøm. Og svigermor – og hendes datter Julie – har Matt fundet her i Noma-land, hvor han nu har slået sig ned og fået foden under eget bord.

Læs mere: Her er årets 5-stjernede restauranter

Stedet er Refshaleøen, et klondyke af gamle semiindustrielle erhvervsbygninger og rave parties, hvor Orlando og co. har overtaget B&Ws aflagte værktøjdepot. Det graffitiprydede spiselokale er unormalt stort (700 kvadratmeter), råt og højloftet efter danske forhold, nærmest den stik modsatte æstetik af den med damaskduge og sølvkandelabre, som salig Jonna Dwinger i sin tid prædikede fra Politikens madanmelderstol. Men samtidig så gennemført velindrettet, at man slet ikke er i tvivl om, at der er tale om en bevidst stil.

Læs også: Noma-kok åbner ny restaurant med flot rekord

Eneste minus er akustikken, som vitterlig er ganske elendig, når salen er oppe at koge. Vi havde meget svært ved at høre annonceringerne af retterne ved det fælles langbord som vi spiste ved.

Amass betyder noget i retning af »at samles«, og netop for at pointere spisningens sociale sider har Orlando skabt fællesbordet 153, hvor man møder kl. 19.30 og spiser i samlet selskab med seks-otte fremmede. Vi ankom i god tid allerede klokken 19 for at have tid til at tage besigtige omgivelserne og nuppe et glas bobler i baren, inden vi skulle til bords.

Læs mere: Se billederne: Kom indenfor på alle årets Michelin-restauranter

Det skulle vise sig, at vi fik mere end rigelig tid at undersøge både bobler – Charmoire (115 kr.), en meget unik rød, mousserende natursag fra Alice Beaufort i det nordlige Bourgogne – og Orlandos køkkenhave ude foran restauranten, for et par af gæsterne ved bord 153 lod vente på sig og forsinkede dermed hele selskabet en halv time.

Da de forsinkede endelig ankom, rykkede de sig sammen med vennerne i den ene ende af det temmelig lange bord og begyndte at pakke gaver op. Så meget for fællesskabet.

Hype medfører som bekendt ofte tårnhøje forventninger, og det var lige hvad min ledsager led af i en grad, at han havde svært ved at skjule en vis skuffelse over de første gode, men også meget enkle snackagtige serveringer: En lille »sandwich« af sankt hans-urt med fyld af hestebønner og salturt rørt med creme fraiche og et tæt grillet fladbrød bagt af fermenterede kartofler med en rustik pesto af jordskokketop til at dyppe i.

Jeg prøvede at gyde min gæst lidt koldt vand i blodet, det er trods alt begrænset, hvor meget Noma man kan forvente sig til den halve pris, og så tager det jo også tid, selv for en kok der har været højrehånd for de bedste, selv at træde i karakter.

Mere enkelhed fulgte: En grov tatar af saltet makrel med fiskens sprøde grillede skind ovenpå. Stilfærdig, men også meget fin i smagen, ledsaget af en ditto vin muscadet Amphibolite nature fra Jo Landron, som til gengæld blev serveret fra en stor larmende dobbelt magnumflaske.

Næste vin, 2012 riesling fra Arndorfer i Østrig, kom ind i samme format og ledsagede nogle små havrekiks i happerstørrelse med valnøddecreme drysset med revet, varmrøget foie gras. Vinen rakte også til næste ret, som kunne ligne en gang pasta, men viste sig at være tynde bændler af ti armet blæksprutte og sprøde gule bønner.

Læs også: Claus Meyer slår dørene op til nyt madtempel

Udmærket, om end min ledsager stadig og rykkede utålmodigt i stolen i forventning om at storheden snart måtte indfinde sig. Det gjorde den et langt stykke hen af vejen med næste servering, et perfekt tilberedt æggeblomme serveret i skummende jomfrusmør – som er meget syrligt og frisk i smagen fordi ikke al kærnemælken er presset ud – blendet med grønne urter. Igen ganske enkelt, men jeg husker umiddelbart ikke, hvornår jeg sidst har fået et bedre æg.

I glasset maccabeu »Isadora« fra Jolly Ferriol i Roussillon, radikalt tørret i frugten og træet næsten som en bourbon, umiddelbart ikke lige min smag, men absolut god til æggeblommen.

Med næste ret faldt min medspiser endelig til ro: Et stykke saftig havtaske bagt i fuld figur på havegrillen ledsaget af det afsmeltede fedt fra små sprødristede tern af særdeles moden oksetalg fra en velhængt højreb og et par blade helt ny grønkål fra Søren Wiuff. En i al sin enkelthed nærmest genial ret eftersom havtaskens latente kødgen blev foldet helt ud her – i øvrigt korrekt og glimrende ledsaget af en »orange vin« 2007 Sauvageonne fra Les Griottes i Loire – som med sin garvesyre spillede perfekt til det smeltede animalske fedt.

Efter måltidets højdepunkt måtte vi lidt ned på jorden igen: Den minimalistiske »hovedret« bestod af tynde skiver lammebryst garneret med stikkelsbær, agurk og mynte. Problemet var at det relativt sartsmagende, lyse lam blev overdøvet af stikkelsbærrenes hårde syre og den alt for heftigt parfumerede mynte.

Med desserten blev harmonien i mundhulen imidlertid hurtigt genetableret: Små vilde, mega karakterfulde kirsebær fra Hellerup ledsaget af forfriskende, ikke for sød mælkeis, hvedebrødscroutoner og olivenolie. I glasset endnu en mousserende rødvin fra Alice Beaufort, en demi-sec pinot noir, som smagte fint, men desværre var for tør i sammenhængen.

Punktum for en fin helhedsoplevelse bestående af unikke rammer, gennemført moderne, afslappet gastronomi og vin. Uden tvivl et køkken, som det skal blive interessant at følge fremover, efterhånden som Orlando formentlig gastronomisk set vil bevæge sig længere og længere væk fra udgangspunktet Noma og omegn.

Hvad: Amass
Hvor: Refshalevej 153, 1432 København, tlf.: 43 58 43 30
Hvor meget: Seks-retters menu 575 kr., flaskevin kr.

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