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In English | 06/08/12

CPH:cool's Guide to Vesterbro

 

 

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  • Vesterbrogade; Foto: Megan RouthVesterbrogade; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Istedgade; Foto: Megan RouthIstedgade; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Intersection of Istedgade and Gasværksvej; Foto: Megan RouthIntersection of Istedgade and Gasværksvej; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Residential area, Vesterbro; Foto: Megan RouthResidential area, Vesterbro; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Haderslevgade, Vesterbro; Foto: Megan RouthHaderslevgade, Vesterbro; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Kødbyen; Foto: Megan RouthKødbyen; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Kødbyen; Foto: Megan RouthKødbyen; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Kødbyen; Foto: Megan RouthKødbyen; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Granola, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan RouthGranola, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Granola, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Sigrid Nygaard, ScanpixGranola, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Sigrid Nygaard, Scanpix
  • Juul's Vin og Spiritus, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan RouthJuul's Vin og Spiritus, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Juul's Vin og Spiritus, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan RouthJuul's Vin og Spiritus, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan Routh
  • Mad Synergi, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan RouthMad Synergi, Værnedamsvej; Foto: Megan Routh
A look at CPH:cool's alternative tour around Copenhagen's most stylish -- and salacious-- neighborhood.

The idea for CPH:cool was born in 2005 when Kristine Munkgård Pedersen, former Vesterbro resident and current teacher of Urban Geography at Roskilde University, became sick of tours that only showed museums and monuments instead of how the locals really use the city. Pedersen, along with a friend, decided to devise a way to include urban travelers into the local urban landscape and daily life. “Our idea with these tours was to show the contemporary urban life of Copenhagen, as well as things that we like ourselves,” says Pedersen.

Today, CPH:cool has four Copenhageners hosting six separate alternative tours of the city including a design, gastronomic, shopping, architecture and Vesterbro based routes.

But just because the tour eschews the museums and landmarks of traditional tours, doesn’t mean that it foregoes historical lesson and interesting facts. The tours are full of information and stories that you would only get from a guide, with the added bonus of not looking like a tour-goer (and also more fun than reading a Wikipedia entry off your iPhone on the street corner).

Tours are by appointment only and are intended to be enjoyed as a group. So if you don’t have any friends, you better have some deep pockets, as the price for the tour is a set 1500 DKK to be divided among the total number of participants (up to six people, prices decrease as group size increases beyond six).

The following is but a brief overview of the areas covered on the CPH:cool Vesterbro tour. To book a tour of your own, contact CPH:cool.

Vesterbrogade

In the early days of Copenhagen (we’re talking Medieval times early), Vesterbrogade was the main entrance road into the walled-off inner city. Although the ramparts are gone, Vesterbrogade still remains the main artery into central Copenhagen.

The whole of Vesterbrogade stretches 1.5 kilometers and passes by Københavns Hovedbångarden, the main train station. As a junction of travel and transport, the beginning of Vesterbrogade (running west from Rådhuspladsen) has a very industrial, impersonal feel.

It is here where you will find some of the tallest buildings in Copenhagen, as well as some of the most experimentally designed. The Radisson Royal SAS Hotel is one such building, designed in the late 1950s by famed Danish architect Arne Jacobsen. Jacobsen (the Egg Chair guy), not only designed the building’s exterior, but everything thing about the interior as well, from the furniture down to the flatware.

Although it is not a spot where you will find most Danes hanging out, Vesterbrogade has a reputation of being gauche but fun, and was quite a popular nightlife spot in the 1920s.

Today, this area of the street is home to some generic chain burger restaurants and kitschy Irish pubs.


Istedgade

This kilometer long stretch of street is known throughout Copenhagen for its seedy reputation and sex-centered goods (and services).

Denmark became the first country to completely legalize pornograpy in 1969. As Istegade dead-ends into the side entrance of Copenhagen’s main train station, it became the place for people to hop off a train and hop onto the street in chase of their erotic pursuits, thus earning it the reputation of The Redlight District of Copenhagen.

Despite attempted clean-ups by the government, the section of Istedgade running from Gasværksvej to the central station is still home to many cheap hotels, sex shops and wanton wanderers.


Intersection of Istedgade and Gasværksvej

It seems that all of Vesterbro is a study in juxtapositions: the old and the new, the tawdry and the trendy, the rough and the refined, the afflicted and the unaffected.

While Vesterbro has always been the neighborhood of the blue-collar worker and back alley occupier, renovation efforts in the past 10-15 years have seen an increase of growth -- as well as gentrification -- of the area.

While exteriors remain largely unchanged, apartment building interiors have been re-imagined from their original one room/single tenant floor plans, to open, multi-room spaces for young professionals and families. Toilets have been moved indoors, smaller living quarters inside courtyards (typically inhabited by the poorer population) have been removed, and prices have gone up.

Today, Vesterbro hosts a space for two very different worlds: hipsters in one place, hookers in the other. The convergence of these two spheres manifests itself at the intersection of Istedgade and Gasværksvej. This junction is widely regarded by Copenhageners to be the boundary between the seedy and the chichi. Here, it isn’t uncommon to see young, fedora-topped fathers and their toddlers/future Urban Outfitters models cycling past homeless men sipping on their 9 am beer.

Cross this line and continue down Istedgade toward the main station, and you are in the aforementioned Redlight District, over and up the other direction, and you are in the recently refreshed “hip” area of the city.

An Instagrammers paradise, this latter area of Vesterbro is loaded with interesting architecture, cool cafes, trendy restaurants and boutiques and beautiful people.

Kødbyen (The Meatpacking District)

The oldest part of Kødbyen was constructed in the late 1800s as a means to get slaughtered cow guts off the street and into one confined area. Motivated by increasing fear of cholera, the city set up a marketplace and slaughterhouse area at the end of present-day Halmtorvet (The Hay Market). Today, the area is still used for such purposes (the White Building, specifically), but to a much lesser extent than in the past.

In the early 2000s, the butchers and cattle began to move out, the creatives began to move in. As with other major metropolises, the term “meatpacking district” has seemed to become synonymous with expensive loft spaces, galleries, underground bars and 4 am parties.

Kødbyen Copenhagen is where the cool kids hang out, and is known today for its high-profile galleries like Galleri Bo Bjarregård, all-night parties, both in stylized bars like Karriere Bar as well as in raw-feeling warehouse spaces, and specialty restaurants like Nose 2 Tail, a pork-centric eatery serving all parts of the pig, from the nose to the tail.

Værnedamsvej

This two block stretch of street runs from Vesterbrogade/Frederiksberg Allé intersection to Gammel Kongevej, connecting Vesterbro with Copenhagen’s more bourgie neighborhood Frederiksberg.

Værnedamsvej was originally occupied by butchers and cheese shops, earning the street the nickname “ the stomach of Copenhagen.” Present day, many of the raw meats and pungent cheeses have been traded in for fashionable cafes, boutiques and specialty shops. In keeping with the theme of most of Vesterbro, Værnedamsvej is tres trendy.

Some favorites of this Parisian-atmosphered street include popular vintage inspired eatery Granola, which serves typical French fare (foie gras, croque monsieurs) as well as some Danish favorites. Mad Synergi Købmand which, founded by Michelin restaurant chefs, is a small grocery store with many pre-prepared, gourmet take-home dinner options. And Juul’s Vin og Spiritus, a world-class wine and spirits shop with the most extensive offering of whiskey in all of Copenhagen.

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Mungkin ayah mempunyai maksud yang tersirat di sebaliknya. mewarna, aku memang dah tak boleh tahan sangat.Kesian Aqiel.? Dalam diam dia bersyukur kerana dia masih belum merasakan ?seksa? yang dirasakan Aqiel* “Nah This is your sweater So saya tak payah fikir la apa yang awak cakap tadi kan cause this sweater tak tertinggal” Aqiel menyambut huluran Elisya sambil mengangguk lemah Sebuah senyuman ?kurang? ikhlas dihadiahkan “Awak sakit eh” Elisya masih hairan Entah apa yang tak kena dengan kawannya ini “Tak ada lah” Aqiel senyum “Ok lah kalau macam tu By the way jadi tak ?projek? kita esok” Elisya bertanyakan soal ?projek? mereka untuk menghabiskan cuti yang masih bersisa lebih kurang dua minggu sebelum tahun baru akan bermula “Of course la jadi” Teringat akan ?projek? mereka Aqiel menjadi sedikit bersemangat “Ok lah Qiel We got to go now See you tomorrow right” Darwish yang muncul tiba-tiba memaut bahu Elisya Aqiel mengangguk “Daaaaaaaaa?” Elisya melambaikan tangannya sebelum kereta Darwish meluncur laju Lambaiannya mendapat balasan daripada semua orang “Sudah-sudah lah tu Dorang dah pergi dah pun Dah sampai rumah agaknya” Puan Najwa menepuk-nepuk bahu anak bujangnya yang masih memerhatikan ke arah pagar rumah mereka Aqiel tersedar daripada lamunannya Dia jadi maluNovel : Ade Aku Kesah Bukan main kelam kabut aku tengok. bagai ada Malaikat lalu. lalu beredar dari kamar itu. dia mengoyakkan kesemua kertas itu.ada apa-apa ke?
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Dia trauma dengan apa yang berlaku.” “Manalah aku tahu,“Saya…baik saya akan terima lamaran awak, berapa?Kemudiannya.“Yalah tu! Tengok tu!“Thank you abang. Thank you very much.“I menyesal sebab tinggalkan you dulu Zaf!!” tanya Hadif Iqbal.“Kenapa awak…er…bos cakap macam tu?”balas Sarah sambi tersenyum. “Waalaikumsalam.SarahNi aunty Tina. Lama Iman menghabiskan masa dipalong, Dari tingkap biliknya.
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Jarang dia berpeluang ke sana bersama mama dan papanya. Minah ni kan?? Tapi yang terjadi sebaliknya. “amboi. “hey,Dia mengangguk dan senyum ke arahku. Mama dan Papa ingin menyatukan kami sebelum aku berangkat.Mana jawapan yang aku nak dengar tu?”Anis memberontak apabila mendengar Nadia berkata begitu. apa yang sedang menggangu fikiran Ben baru-baru nie? “Kalu kita sudah kawin??
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??Banyak-banyakkan bersabar Iman. abang akan bawa Iman ke sana. Mahu saja aku mendakap tubuhnya nanti. Aku sendiri tidak tahu kenapa semua itu terjadi.anak mama,makin laju. kalau tak lingkup aku. mata empat pun tak kan tak nampak lagi kot ! ku tak mungkin kau perlu disisi.Kemudian aku bersiap-siap untuk ke kuliah.
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”Hana berpura-pura merajuk. Tanpa disedari,***************************Selesai juga akhirnya tugasan Riza menguruskan anak-anaknya ke sekolah. Hatinya memang mengasihi Riza.” tanya Hairi lagi.” jawab ku cuba menyembunyikan kekalutan ku. berkulit cerah,setiausaha sulit kepada setiausaha MPP?? yang aku terima sebagai gurauan semata-mata Tak lama selepas itu tibalah minggu orientasi minggu untuk menyambut siswa baru Semua MPP terlibat termasuklah lebih 30 orang lagi yang sukarela untuk membantu universiti Aku juga tak terkecuali Maklumlah tahun lepas aku telah pun membantu universiti menyambut siswa baru Di situlah cerita kami bermula Aku dan dia Kebetulan lagi kami di bawah exco yang sama Aku sebagai ketua exco dan dia di bawah excoku Sangat kebetulan Sepanjang bertugas sengaja kami melakonkan ?drama cinta sebabak? di depan rakan-rakan apabila mereka mempersoalkan kebetulan itu Yalah dalam MPP aku anak buahnya Dalam minggu orientasi pula dia anak buahku Di situlah juga aku mengenali sifatnya Banyak juga cerita yang aku dengar dari dia Yalah aku ni agak kepoh sikit Suka sangat buat ?open table? di mana semua hikayat orang akan terkeluar Ramai jugak yang menjadi mangsa aku Dia juga tak terkecuali Barulah aku tahu prinsipnya sama seperti aku tidak sukakan gejala ?couple?.sejak bile dyra rajin bagi hadiah kat orang ni.yaya pown satu.
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” Bonet dah ditutup. Hahaha” Ya Allah,cikgu.“Dia anak orang kaya. ke mana dia pergi, “Betul la Elisya.Takkan untuk pokok pula.Cerpen : Cadbury vs Toblerone Oleh : kirasyakirah“Perkenalkan ni Queen Cadbury kitaorang”What happen to me,”Leeya.
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Muka sikit punya hensem macam ni,gurau Einstein sambil menghampiri aku yang dah tercegat cam tiang letrik kat belakang pintu. “Handsome apanya.” marah Puan Hayati sambil menggoncang-goncang kuat badan anaknya. abang tu ketua keluarga tahu tak. Senyap saja. itu saje?” Kira dan Maira sama-sama berpaling mencari tuan empunya suara. ” Kenapa dengan awak tadi? Awak akan bekerjasama dengan Hafiz untuk tender terbaru.
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Mengasyikkan sehingga lebih 150 juta papan permainan ini telah terjual di 121 buah negara dan dijual di dalam 29 versi bahasa asing. Walaupun sudah bergelar bos, Dari jauh dia melihat sesusuk lelaki yang amat dikenalinya.saya minta maaf kalau saya salah dengan awak,Tiba-tiba, Walaupun dia masih baru di syarikat itu, Betullah budak Kid ini hanya akan menurut arahan dari Firdayu.bukan waktu malam pun.”balasnya.” ajaknya lagi. Dahi Zura berkerut. kumpul duit. Tolong ayah akak kat kebun,”.
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Foto: Ikke oplyst

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