The neighbourhood stretches out from the Assistens Kirkegård, the churchyard, where many famous Danes are buried. The churchyard also acts as a calm, lush breathing space in the middle of the city, and many locals go there to sunbathe, relax and have picnics by the old headstones.

One of Copenhagen’s by far most creative streets is located in Nørrebro. Jægersborggade has everything from luxurious vintage clothing in Mélange De Luxe to the wafer-thin, hand-made ceramic design in Inge Vincents’ workshop and gallery. Jægerborggade, that used to be a rough, socially burdened street, is well on its way to becoming Nørrebro’s centre for exciting little shops and high-quality cuisine, but take note that there are a few people in the street, who may or may not be dealing certain illegal substances and therefore do not care to be photographed at all.

If you were thinking about Noma, but decided you could not afford it, do not despair: At Relæ, former sous-chef at Noma now head-chef and owner Christian F. Puglisi serves world-class, groundbreaking cuisine at accommodating prices. His 325-kroner menu, which includes four small courses that also come in a vegetarian version, is an absolute sensation of pureness for the palate – as is the restaurant’s décor for the eyes. Book well ahead. Manfred just across the road is the Relæ version of a civic restaurant and is even cheaper.

The Danish Police Museum

Murder at the museum? If you feel like a chilling visit to the museum try out former police station number six on Fælledvej, which has now been converted into The Danish Police Museum. Currently the museum has an exhibition on the infamous, and still unsolved double murder at Peter Bangs Vej – the most spectacular case ever in the Danish history of criminal investigation. At the Police Museum many hitherto classified items involved in the murder case are now on public display.

In Griffenfeldsgade, where the rent is low, and you can meet a lot of the Somalis living in Copenhagen, close to Folkets Park, where the homeless often spend the night, four venturesome women, who used to work as colleagues at Italian restaurant Famo, have opened a new restaurant; Spiseri. Prices are low and the food is simple, healthy and good. The ambience is very Nørrebroish: cosy, relaxed but with the occasional loud chattering and rambunctious party of guests. Book well in advance as tables are in serious demand, and do not miss out on Spiseri’s Sunday afternoon special selection of cakes.

Just around the corner from Sankt Hans Torv you find one of Copenhagen’s best combinations of concert venue and nightclub. Activists from the Next Stop Movement originally opened Rust, which having undergone several refurbishments and structural renovations has now become a great contemporary club with multiple applications.

Sankt Hans Torv

Nørrebro’s only cinema opened in 2001 as an alternative to the commercial cinemas. In the beginning the idealists behind Empire did not have cinema commercials before the movie! Unfortunately they eventually had to capitulate to the advertisement industry to bring in extra earnings to make the budget come together. What a pity. Even so Empire is a great cinema and its cosy ambience and integrity remains completely intact. Gilt is a hush-hush cocktail bar if there ever was one. Stealthily located on the slightly run-down and tatty Rantzausgade, Gilt offers great cosy, atmosphere and swanky cocktails.

Oak Room is another boisterous and bubbling place for excellent cocktails made by accomplished bartenders. And here is a little secret tip for you: The bar manager knows everything there is to know about tequila.

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Addresses:
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Spiseri Griffenfeldsgade 28 2200 København N
Relæ Jægersborggade 41, 2200 København N
Mélange De Luxe Jægersborggade 6 2200 København N
Inge Vincents Jægersborggade 27 2200 København N
Gilt Rantzausgade 39 2200 København N
Oak Room Birkegade 10 2200 København N
Rust Guldbergsgade 8 2200 København N
Empire Bio Guldbergsgade 29 F 2200 København N
The Danish Police Museum Fælledvej 20 2200 København N